Monday 1 November 2010

Research Paper

'A fractal is "a rough or fragmented geometric shape that can be split into parts, each of which is (at least approximately) a reduced-size copy of the whole," a property called self-similarity.'
(Company.. ISBN 0-7167-1186-9.)

The fascinating object known to the world as the Mandelbrot, has been capturing the public’s attention and imagination for over three decades. Over the last 30 years the Mandelbrot’s hypnotic colours and eye pleasing patterns have being drawing attention to them from all over the world. It is known as a ‘fractal’, which is a type of shape that yields detail forever, regardless of how far you zoom into the object.
The object is still only 2D and flat, which means there are no shadows, perspective, light sourcing or depth to the Mandelbrot. However, the image featured in this article shows a potential 3D version of the same fractal shape.
(3dguy.tv/tag/disney’s-up/page/2/ )

This is a set of experimental 3D fractals generated with various software applications for the technical and creative exploration of computer generated abstract mesh creation.
All of these beautiful and sophisticated fractals belong to the quaternion, hyper complex, cubic Mandelbrot, complexified quaternion and octonion renderings of the Mandelbrot and Julia sets. Some others are based on iterative 3x3 matrices where power series are utilized for transcendental and trig functions. The colour treatment for each fractal was decided upon by it's shape and form.

richardrosenman.cgsociety.org/gallery/736459/A wedding gown made with made with 24,000 led lights.
Brainwaves of the wearer are monitored by EEG electrodes in the headpiece causing colour changes in the fibre optics.
A mobile phone built into a dress, answer calls by raising your arm.
A handbag that takes photographs every 30 paces then forwards the image to your blog. Designer Helen Storey's beautiful collection of delicate dissolvable clothing from 2008 was a thought provoking project into making packaging truly invisible.
Polymer fabric disintegrated as it came into contact with water. (http:/bbc.co.uk/southyorkshire/content/articles/2008/06/20/tony_ryan_wonderland_feature.shtml)

I have been interested in experimenting with melting fabrics. The idea of heating fabric and shaping it, also cutting it to your requirements with heat is an interesting area to venture into.
Man-made fabric, particularly acetate, is easy to work with being sensitive to heat. With practice it can be sculptured into designs.

Spray on clothes was an interesting article on clothing items that are virtually made before your eyes. Combined chemicals and fabric fibres are applied to the body by a spray gun.
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxjAon54yxI&feature=player_embedded#!)

Looking at the embroidery work of Lesage, has given a fascinating insight into their beautifully detailed and skilled work done in their ateliers. The company still supplies the top couture houses designing exclusively for each one.

Above, Madeleine Vionnet’s dress from 1938 is made from silk tulle, panne velvet and horsehair with a silver lamé underdress and Lesage embroidery.
(http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2006/08/22/magazine/27revival01ready.html)

Tambour beading is a technique securing beaded decoration to fabric. The detail is done from the underside of the fabric, which is stretched on a frame to aid the task.

M.C.Escher
The work of Maurits Cornelis Escher (1898-1972)shows his observations of the world around him and his incredible imaginative talent. His fascinating graphic art work is thought provoking in all it's diverse forms, sketches, prints, woodwork, lithography and his complex mathematical tessellating picture puzzles.
Some of my favourite images are from his study of spirals, whirlpools and knots. I feel somewhat drawn to the spiral shapes and feel that would be an interesting area to venture into with fabric.
(Locker, J.L. 2006. The magic of M.C.Escher.London. Thames & Hudson)

I was drawn to these microscopic images, the details and colours are quite beautiful and fascinating. Originally I had read The Illustrated Atlas of the Human Body by Beverly McMillan which contains some incredible images. There are a diverse range of images available including human and plant cells, insects, hair and various aspects of nature which blown up look look incredible.
I am increasingly becoming more interested in the various textures which could be translated into fabric.
(http://www.3d-resources.com/3d_studio_max_tutorials/microscopic_cells_tutorial.html)
(http://images.clipartof.com/small/15511-Abstract-Background-Of-Blue-Microscopic-Organisms-Clipart-Illustration-Image.jpg )

Previous to looking at the microscopic imaging, I had been briefly experimenting with melting fabrics, these 'spikes' could easily resemble in some way the previous images.

Another area I have been keenly interested in were the incredibly detailed images produced from microscopic imaging.
Fig 1. Image shows lung tissue damage due to emphysema, it reminds me of the Mandelbrot images.(p.150)
Fig 2. The lungs again, the bronchioles remind me of a delicate lace tree. (p.145)
Fig 3. Hair growing from the scalp, fantastic detail and texture. (p.43)
Fig 4. A electron micrograph of a sebaceous gland, I particularly like the exposed layering of the dermis. (p.27)
Fig 5.An oligodendrocyte, which is a type of nerve cell. Again, I particularly like the feathered effect around the edge.
All of the above images fascinate me, especially how they could be interpreted into designs for embroidery or surface texture.

(McMillan, B. 2008. The Illustrated Atlas of the Human Body. Australia. Weldon Owen Pty Ltd.)


Today’s article in the Telegraph Review looked at the late mathematician Benoit Mandelbrot's discovery of fractals. Fractals are repeat patterns that grouped together make the same pattern and so on, they can be seen in nearly every aspect of life. Some of the images are very striking and quite spellbinding, I could see the designs being manipulated into my own practice and I think this would be a stimulating field to undertake.
(Stewart, I. 23.10.2010. p.R14 From cauliflowers to cosmic secrets. Telegraph Review)

The more I see of fractals in all forms, the more appealing they are becoming. I could envisage their usage in fabric as decorative work. Some of the images of fractals available on the internet are spellbinding. Natural fractals can be found in so many forms, shells, snowflakes, crystals, wildlife, the coastline, trees, leaves, plants, germs. As with fractals' pattern inside another, the list goes on and on.

(http://web.me.com/blinknowplea/Neomandala_iweb/Blog/Entries/2008/3/1_Links_to_images_used_in_Afloat_in_the_Digital_Pond.html )


Good practice!
Wednesday 20th I was part of a fashion show at the Congress Theatre, Cwmbran. I exhibited over twenty gowns in the finale as a fund raising event for St David's Foundation. I was really pleased at the outcome, over two hundred tickets were sold at £7.00 which was a good response for the charity. I also had very good feedback which was a boost as it has been a long time since I have done an event as it can be very demanding. It was interesting to hear the comments from the audience which i can take on board and useful to undergo the experience.


Mandelbrot
Today’s article in the Telegraph Review looked at the late mathematician Benoit Mandelbrot's discovery of fractals. Fractals are repeat patterns that grouped together make the same pattern and so on, they can be seen in nearly every aspect of life. Some of the images are very striking and quite spellbinding, I could see the designs being manipulated into my own practice and I think this would be a stimulating field to undertake.
(Stewart, I. 23.10.2010. p.R14 From cauliflowers to cosmic secrets. Telegraph Review)

The more I see of fractals in all forms, the more appealing they are becoming. I could envisage their usage in fabric as decorative work. Some of the images of fractals available on the internet are spellbinding. Natural fractals can be found in so many forms, shells, snowflakes, crystals, wildlife, the coastline, trees, leaves, plants, germs. As with fractals' pattern inside another, the list goes on and on.


Supplies
Due to my profession I already have trade accounts with a number of suppliers of fabrics and haberdashery. This will give me a wide range of materials that I can experiment with and use.

The images shown, including this bridal gown is made from fabric by an Italian company called Luminex who specialise in fibre optic woven material.
This Italian base fashion house is designing bridal wear with Luminex's light emitting fabric also. The Luminex company also offers a small number of items available to purchase in their specialist fabric.

I really like the idea of fibre optics in clothing, but wonder just how flexible and durable it would be in more complicated designs.

The trade magazine Bridalbuyer keeps up to date information on up and coming trends in bridal and special occasion wear. Informative on trade shows for the industry, textile forums etc. The first image I suppose is one that greatly appeals to me, beautiful and full of excess. A silk dress with a leather coat by Christian Lacroix, Well documented by photographer Alix Malka. My idea for a collection would be of striking glamour.
(Agnelli,D. 15.11.08 p1. Once upon a time. Telegraph luxury.)

The second dress by John Galliano at Dior shows gown looking semi constructed, almost thrown together. In true Dior style constructed with inbuilt corset but revealed. I really do like this deconstructed look, revealing almost how it is made.
(p326 Dior)

The last image shows a Dior dress from 1957, it's fascinating to see the inside finish of the gown's bodice, a lot of hand sewn work with self fabric bra cups for shape.(p113 Dior)

Times are tough at the moment and people need something beautiful in their lives. This is something I would certainly like to display in my work.

The 2009 Turner Prize winner Richard Wright produced a beautiful highly detailed painting in gold leaf large enough to fill one of the gallery's walls. It attracted huge viewing figures with massive queues waiting to view it at the time.
"It heralds nothing less than the return of beauty to modern art."
" Desire for work that displays craft and skill is reasserting itself." quotes by Alastair Sooke
(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/turner-prize/6767001/Turner-Prize-Art-is-beautiful-again.html)

Ideas
Reflecting on some of the work I have researched, some areas are becoming more favourable with stronger ideas for development. Although I have traditional techniques, i can build on these bringing in stimulating ideas in texture and decoration. The idea of the use of fractals replicating themselves to give endless detail, giving texture, beauty and life to work and even their images being projected on to similarly detailed garments could be a satisfactory outcome. I would hope to develop new ways of practice or alternatives in merging old and new ideas together and that could be the way forward for me. There needs to be an intensity and beauty in the final designs that would personally satisfy my own ideals of what I could be capable of producing. My hope would be that the aesthetics of the final works should evoke positive emotions in the viewer.


Way out
An article in the guardian looks at the possibility of catwalk fashions going on the decline, mainly due to expense and the development of technology. Apparently Burberry will be broadcasting its new collection to it's 25 stores in this country where clients will be able to watch on iPads with live streaming.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/sep/10/fashion-week-catwalk-shows-burberry


Digital Drape
(http://emilycrane.co.uk/digitaldrape.html)

I spotted this site which got me very interested. Images are projected onto the model and the design marked off. Simple idea but effective. Along the lines I had been toying with of projections over textured gown, perhaps an easier way for me to go forward, projecting my design images onto plain base then building up detail in almost 3d forms?
Developed by the MA fashion team at Kingston University.

(http://staceylouisegrant.blogspot.com/search/label/deconstructed)
An interesting article with her experience of digital drape.

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